A major driving force for growth of the denim industry is the need for new innovation and fashion. However, the current technology of producing and washing denim really only delivers one kind of productxe2x80x94blue jeans (or shorts or shirts) with two or three basic shades of blue.
Almost all jeans sold today in America are enzyme washed. The purpose of the enzyme wash is to remove some of the color from the rigid dark blue denim and develop the cast and character of a stonewashed look. Depending upon the length of the enzyme wash cycle, the color of the final denim can range from light blue, medium blue or dark blue jeans with one basic pattern result. The following excerpts taken from a recent article in Daily News Record (xe2x80x9cGlut of Basic Denim Has Mills Searching for Fashion Appealxe2x80x9d, Mar. 3, 1998) from leaders in the denim industry illustrate the point:
Dutch Leonard, President of Burlington Global Denim, stated xe2x80x9cRight now there is a world oversupply of denim in basics. We are shoring up our participation in the added value segment of the denim businessxe2x80x9d. He further reports that xe2x80x9cWe are spending a lot of time with consumers to find out what they want. What we have found is that consumers are looking for something new and different . . . xe2x80x9d.
Watts Carr, President of Cone Denim North America, indicates xe2x80x9cOf course time will tell if consumers are willing to spend more for investment jeans wear, but from what we""ve heard, the apparel makers are getting into it for the long run. And I think that we will see a broad-based movement that will impact jeans wear manufacturers across the board and help fend off some of the off-shore low-ball-priced businessxe2x80x9d.
Chris Glynn, Executive Vice-President of Greenwood, stated xe2x80x9cThe only way an American mill can survive is in added-value fabrics. The market is big enough for a compromise between volume and innovationxe2x80x9d.
John Heldrich, President and Chief Executive Officer of Swift Denim, reported that xe2x80x9cAt Magic, there was a lot of excitement around denim. Fashion items are what is doing well. The designer segment is driving lighter weights and finishes, and newer brand names . . . xe2x80x9d
John Hudson, Jr., Executive Vice-President of Avondale, indicated that xe2x80x9cthe key to success in today""s denim business is low-cost manufacturing and innovationxe2x80x9d.
Hence, it can be seen that the denim market is crying for new denim products other than the three basic shades of blue. However, the enzyme washing process that is used to create the denim look simply does not have the flexibility to produce a variety of different denim looks. In addition, the enzyme washing process has numerous drawbacks.
The true total cost for enzyme washing one pair of denim jeans is about $3 per pair when all unit cost and freight parameters are considered. The enzyme washing process significantly reduces (by about 36%) tensile and tear properties of the denim. In addition, the enzyme washing process produces numerous defects such as back pocket blowout that results in scrap or rework. The enzyme washing process uses as much as 35 gallons of water per pair of jeans. In addition to all these problems, there are significant environmental problems associated with the handling and disposal of the enzymes and wastewater.
U.S. Pat. No. 5,567,207 assigned to Icon, Inc. discloses a water free method for color fading textile materials with the use of a laser. Icon indicates that the wavelength of the laser should be chosen such that it is strongly absorbed by the dye, but not by the textile material. Icon used a Yag Laser for this purpose. Accordingly, the Icon patent teaches that the Yag laser process will provide optimum dye photo-decomposition while not damaging the textile material. Icon, however, still only taught emulating the standard characteristics of certain convention denim design.
In our copending applications, and U.S. Pat. No. 5,916,461, TechnoLines, Inc. has shown that to produce the desired unique patterns, a CO2 laser is used which alters the surface chemistry of the fabric such that the fabric is indeed damaged, albeit at an acceptable level. For example, TechnoLines, Inc. has determined that the percent reduction in warp tensile strength from a number of different new denim patterns created was from about 10 to about 20%. This is much better than the conventional enzyme washing process which reduces warp tensile properties by about 36%. Therefore, the TechnoLines, Inc. laser scribing process clearly but acceptably damages the textile material.
One possible look that has been desired and used by the industry is a seam abrasion look. This look forms a worn or ragged look on all the seams on a pair of jeans.
TechnoLines, Inc. has disclosed in our copending application that a specific range of energy density per unit time, xe2x80x9cEDPUTxe2x80x9d, must be controlled such that the various patterns withstand the vigors of repeated washings, yet maintain a bright image pattern.
The present specification, for the first time, defines formations of new patterns on denim. These new patterns are defined in detail herein, but more specifically include areas of selectively faded areas of denim, and areas of non-selectively faded denim, collectively forming a pattern.
The pattern is a different pattern than that which would be produced by stone wash or acid washes.
One specific group of patterns includes patterns that repeat in a cyclical arrangement, as compared with the stone washed/acid washed look, which is substantially random in nature.
Another totally new group of patterns is a wallpaper type pattern, wherein cells of the pattern repeat in an offset way.
This is preferably done by varying critical operating parameters of the system, including power and speed (EDPUT), and oscillation and frequency.
The inventor recognized two critical needs for a new denim process which can produce: 1) New denim patterns and looks using the current washing process but without enzymes and 2) Existing and new denim patterns with a process that eliminates the current kind of laundry process completely. Another aspect of this disclosure is to form a unique pattern on a textile material, such as denim, using a laser using these controlled parameters. That unique pattern simulates a random look such as the look of a current enzyme washed product. The material is then washed using a conventional washing, without enzymes, but with desizing agents. The washing process can be part of an assembly line. Preferably, the lasing process is done using parameters which alter the surface chemistry of the fabric such that the fabric is indeed damaged, albeit at an acceptable level.
As described above, the Icon patent effects a water-free method to fade color. In contrast, this specification describes that some form of washing should be used to eliminate the residue on the denim sheet after laser scribing.
One such process disclosed by this application is the on-line washing process where the denim ribbon is lazed and then passed through feed rollers and a bath to wash and rinse the residue from the denim material.
Alternately, the denim product could be sewn and washed with a desizing agent in a short wash and rinse cycle of about 10 minutes, as compared with the standard 60 plus minute cycle for enzyme washing. TechnoLines, Inc. actually lazed denim jean panels with several new and innovative looks described below and then washed the panels in a conventional non-enzyme wash using a small amount of desizing agent and stones.
The seam abraded look can be obtained by incorporating stones into a commercial washer to achieve this effect. In fact, in one experiment TechnoLines, Inc. completed a lazed pair of denim jeans was washed in a commercial washer with a desizing agent and some stones. Surprisingly, after fifteen minutes, the denim product had a great looking lazed pattern with seam abrasion. In view of the above, the inventor recognized two critical needs for a new denim process which can produce: 1) New denim patterns and looks using the current washing process but without enzymes and 2) Existing and new denim patterns with a process that eliminates the current kind of laundry process completely.
One aspect described in this application is to form a unique pattern with a laser using controlled parameters including energy density per unit time and wobble. That unique pattern simulates the look of a current enzyme washed product. The material is then washed using conventional washing, without enzymes, but with desizing agents. The washing process can be part of an assembly line. Preferably, the lasing process is done using parameters which alter the surface chemistry of the fabric such that the fabric is indeed damaged, albeit at an acceptable level.
As described above, the Icon patent effects a water-free method to fade color. In contrast, this specification describes that some form of washing should be used to eliminate the residue on the denim sheet after laser scribing.
One such process disclosed by this application is the on-line washing process where the denim ribbon is lazed and then passed through feed rollers and a bath to wash and rinse the residue from the denim material.
Alternately, the denim product could be sewn and washed with a desizing agent in a short wash and rinse cycle of about 10 minutes, as compared with the standard 60 plus minute cycle for enzyme washing. TechnoLines, Inc. actually lazed denim jean panels with several new and innovative looks described below and then washed the panels in a conventional non-enzyme wash using a small amount of desizing agent and stones.
The seam abraded look can be obtained by incorporating stones into a commercial washer to achieve this effect. In fact, in one experiment TechnoLines, Inc. completed, a lazed pair of denim jeans was washed in a commercial washer with a desizing agent and some stones. Surprisingly, after fifteen minutes, the denim product had a great looking lazed pattern with seam abrasion.